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We’re back for a new season of HiLow and our WRX blew up instantly. Are Subarus as fragile as everyone says? Is James cursed? We got to the bottom of what killed HiCar.

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Milwaukee Electric Tools 2550-20 M12 Rivet Tool (Bare Tool) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C67BGVJ?tag=brooklinexdnm-20

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Barrow 52 in. Brown Large Rectangle Wood Coffee Table with Lift Top
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26 thoughts on “Our New WRX ALREADY Blew Up

  1. I love ejs with spun rod bearings. I get them for 1k the whole car. I take the oil pan out and the oil pickup and bracket, then i take off the bearings from there and i put acl race bearings on. Takes me am hour to do. Then it runs beautifully again. Fckin easy way to do them and i sell it off for 15k bahahaha

  2. Also, a few corrections:
    1. You keep calling it an EJ25. It is not. It is an EJ20. EJ25's only came in the sti. You can also tell because the EJ25 has a semi-closed block and the motor you disassembled has an open block.
    2. You claim that the stock EJ does not have an oil pan baffle. That is false. You can legit look at the motor diagrams. Now, it would have been correct to say that the baffle is not the best for repeated rapid direction changes, but that's not what you said.
    3. Spun bearings can be caused by poor installation as well. Which, seeing as how the motor was just rebuilt is definitely a viable explanation.
    4. Piston slap can also be caused by different piston metallurgy. For instance, forged pistons expand more when warm, so they are purposely undersized when cool so that they expand to the correct size when warm. This means that you will get piston slap when the car is warming up. This is generally harmless unless you put the motor under heavy load when cold(bad idea with any setup, period).
    5. Oil starvation can also be caused by a defect in the stock oil pickup where the brazing can fail and reduce the capability of the pump to move oil around the block. This is why people generally upgrade their pickup and baffle on their EJs before hitting the track. My guess is that you would have noticed this during disassembly.

    At the end of the day, you took a pretty much bone stock street car with a freshly rebuilt(and not properly broken-in) motor and thrashed the shit out of it on the track. That was not a smart decision. I would expect the same thing to happen to pretty much any street car with a stock oiling system that isn't marketed as "track ready".

    Yes, I'm a Subaru fanboy. Yes I'm butthurt. That said, keep talking trash, maybe it'll make my parts cheaper.

  3. It's a crap shoot. I'm betting the block wasn't decked in the rebuild. Subaru blocks warp just as bad as the heads when over heated. A good rule of thumb when rebuilding a Subaru engine is to look at the knock sensor. If it's melted just toss the entire block. It's most likely warped to the point where it'll give you a deceptive look of bad rings and bearings at the same time. You could end up putting good internals in a bent block and repeat the entire process again.

  4. I don't have any experience with EJ engines, but I have a huge amount of experience with the earlier EA engines. EA engines hate thin oil at high RPM, they spin rod bearings with it. All I will run in an EA71 or EA81 is Aeroshell 15w50 aircraft oil. For a few reasons. #1 is it "sticks" inside the bearings. I have taken engines that have not run in weeks and they still have oil in the rod and main bearings. No startup noise whatsoever. #2 is it's an ashless oil, it doesn't create deposits when it burns. Very little in terms of cylinder wear on these engines running this oil. #3 is the TCP (tricresyl phosphate) antiwear additive. It prevents scoring on the camshaft and acts as an antirust agent as well. #4 is the level of protection at high temperature. Even above 275 degrees oil temperature, the extreme pressure capability of the oil is well over 100,000 psi. Never had an EJ but that's what I would run for oil. Also runs excellent in big block Mopar engines and 1950s Early Hemi engines. Compatible with leaded fuel as well.

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